Parker recognizes the quality of Gimel’s SJB…
September 3rd, 2010Robert Parker awards Philippe Gimel’s magnificent 2006 “La Pierre Noire” red a whopping 94 points in the latest edition of the Wine Advocate, surely the highest score ever achieved by a wine from the appellation - Ventoux aoc - that the Oxford Companion to Wine ( come on editor Jancis Robinson , get on the ball, time to overhaul this entry) describes as “lacking substance and real interest’! Congratulations PG…very well deserved.
Yesterday the first day in over 40 without guests - late up, 10.00am , delicious sensation, 30 lengths of the pool to ease conscience following blow out Mexican dinner chez C&T the night before; brunch, and then off to explore Villeneuve across the river from Avignon; loved the gardens of the Jardins de l’Abbaye inside the walls of the Fort St.Andre, breathtaking views of the Palais des Papes from the terraces, got so absorbed we forgot the time and when we returned to the gate we were 30 minutes past closing and locked in, no one about all very quiet. Tried scaling walls but turned out these forts were made so not only can you not break in, you cant break out, much shouting ensued from the three of us ( Il y a quelqun?, Au Secours! etc, felt a bit daft, but also a bit desperate) eventually brought an old/deaf lady to our assistance with a key and all was well, much relief. Then to Avignon to dinner at the Cafe next to the Utopia cinema, gazpacho and tagine, and later still a showing of Stephen Frear’s new film Tamara Drewe, VOSTF - v.good, recommended. Pretty much the perfect day…
I heard the other day that one of the Rhone satellite aoc’s was throwing in the towel…Coteaux du Tricastin. Well quite the opposite seems to be happening in the Ventoux, the aoc is positively humming with new talent, fresh thinking and some stunning new wines. Yesterday to visit, case in point, Even Bakke at his 25ha estate just outside Le Barroux known as Clos de Trias. The name is down to the triassic limestone and clay that forms the foundation of his terroir. The winery is formed from the previous owner’s cherry and apricot processing shed, it is unashamedly rustic but the tasting room in the making hints at a family with a keen sense of style. Even cut his wine making teeth in the US completing 14 vintages in Sonoma and Napa before bringing his young family to the Vaucluse in 2007 to do things in his own style. And that style is all about letting the wines express the terroir with minimal interference…wood is limited to a small % of the blend, and old demi-muid at that , sulpher is around a quarter of permitted levels or less. Viticulture is organic and bio-dynamic practices are adopted..but no one is going to “ram it down your throat”. The top end wines are fermented with stems. Bulk of the production is a red cuvee - simply Clos de Trias -Grenache,Syrah and a little Cinsault/Carignan, very refreshing , brambly, good acidity, a little white pepper from the syrah, reminds me of the better Beaumes de Venise reds (like Bernardins/Ferme St.Martin); a newly bottled white, the 2008 vintage, made from Grenache blanc and Clairette - this a lovely medium+ gold colour with some oily gras and melon/apricot on the palate , a little oxidative overall in character, but with sufficient acidity to be balanced , delicious now but will surely improve along the lines of a CNP. Two new special cuvees complete the line up…the more concentrated and textured Vielles Vignes and the possibly one-off haut de gamme “Pied Porcher” , yields of just 20hl/ha from a single parcel of 50 yr old vines, named after the sangliers that patrol that coin…this €45 cuvee (!..in Ventoux) is Even’s homage to Rayas…lovely wine this, had a curious rose petal nose reminding us both of Barolo and tremendous power and complexity in the palate.
With temperatures back in the mid-30’s its way too hot to appreciate red wine. Luckily I’ve been treated to tastings of two excellent whites in the last week. The first, Domaine Nalys’s new cuvee for this year “Cuvee Eicelenci 2008″, a blend of majority Roussanne, Clairette and Grenache, matured in 2/3 yr old barriques but the wood impression is very slight. This is a wine which in my view elevates Nalys’s white wine range- always a selling point of the Domaine and at 15% of production way above the aoc average for whites vs reds- to a new high standard. The elegance and minerality previously seen in their standard cuvee whites is now accompanied by greater opulent texture ( but still on the elegance not the “fat” Roussanne style), crisp lingering finish and more assertive tones of white flowers, nuts and quince. Lovely balanced wine which deservedly won the IWSC silver medal/best in its category in London this year. And very fairly priced at €25 - better than many CNPs at €40. Also proves the point that 2008 whatever you think of the reds was a great Whites vintage.
Our friends and near neighbours at Crestet “La Verriere” open their doors next month (the 5th-9th September) once again to wine students fot their Extreme Wine Experience - if the quality of the speakers and the organisation is even half as good as their recent hosting of the Grenache Symposium this will be well worth signing up for. Here’s a bit about it from the La Verriere web site:
This autumn Decanter magazine launches their new “Decanter Education”. One of the first masterclasses in this series is a subject dear to our heart:”Understanding Northern and Southern Rhone”, led by John Livingstone-Learmonth - surely the most experienced Rhone taster in the world. His lecture is aimed at keen wine lovers with experience of tasting and the desire to increase their knowledge of this particular area.


A new site collating everything the foodie and wine enthusiast needs to know about Provence has launched under the expert guidance of Irish journalist Mary Dowey. Mary’s work may well be familiar to readers of Decanter, she is a regular free lance contributor…she also writes the wine column for Dublin based “The Gloss” and is a wine educator and wine events organizer. Mary has owned a house in our region for many years and is superbly savvy about everywhere and everybody who counts in the world of gourmet Provence ….the site looks great, is easy to navigate and though just launched and awaiting new entries is already a terrific resource, congratulations Mary! Check out the site at: 

